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Domaine Paul Blanck : Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes 2015, Muscat d'Alsace 2015, Pinot Gris 2015, Riesling 2015, Gewurztraminer 2015, Sylvaner Vieilles Vignes 2014, Pinot Gris 2014, Pinot Noir 2013, Pinot Noir "F" 2013, Riesling Rosenbourg 2015, Riesling Patergarten 2014, Riesling Schlossberg 2014, Riesling Furstentum 2014, Pinot Gris Patergarten 2013
BY IAN D’AGATA
Pinot Blanc (90)
Bright golden-tinged yellow. Sweet spices, butter and ripe pear on the nose. Then creamy in texture, offering gently honeyed and spice nuances to the ripe orchard fruit flavors. Finishes quite rich and long; this is surprisingly lively for a wine with 40 percent Auxerrois, which tends to give honeyed, luscious wines not especially characterized
by lip-smacking acidity (the other 60 percent of the blend is Pinot Blanc).
Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes 2015 (88)
Vivid golden-tinged straw. Slightly high-toned aromas of yellow apple, ripe pear, spring flowers and butter. Juicy and penetrating, but still a gently creamy Auxerrois. Finishes medium-long and clean, but a little simply, delivering good but not outstanding flavor intensity.
Muscat d'Alsace 2015 (90)
Bright golden-tinged straw. Bright lime, grapefruit, rose and sage aromas on the nose. Fresh and lively in the mouth; zingy acidity lifts the juicy grapefruit and peach flavors. Finishes medium-long and with a peppery bite. A blend of 60 percent Muscat d’Alsace and 40 percent Muscat Ottonel.
Pinot Gris 2015 (89)
Bright straw-yellow. Aromas of peach, almond, butter, bergamot and white flowers. Supple and off-dry, displaying a glyceral texture to the peach and apple flavors. Finishes fresh and sappy.
Riesling 2015 (89)
Luminous straw-green. Lemony apple and white flower aromas are complemented by a mineral nuance. Bright and juicy, offering crisp flavors of apple, nectarine and aromatic herbs lifted by lively acidity. Not the most complex wine you’ll ever taste, but balanced and fresh. Finishes long and classically dry.
Gewurztraminer 2015 (88)
Pale bright yellow. Aromas of grapefruit, flowers and spices. Supple and fruity, displaying a pliant, suave texture but modest nuance and complexity. Finishes reasonably dry and clean. This entry-level Gewürz showcases a fresh,lovely varietal nose, but I find it a little on the heavy side lovely varietal nose, but I find it a little on the heavy side because of suspect acidity.
Sylvaner Vieilles Vignes 2014 (91)
Pale straw-green. The initially subdued nose opens slowly with prolonged aeration to offer bergamot, mint, green apple and coriander aromas and flavors. Bright, juicy and precise, displaying sneaky concentration and lively, harmonious acidity. Finishes long and clean. This is a remarkably good Sylvaner, but make sure you let it air out
in a large glass, carafe or jug for 5-10 minutes at least. The vieilles vignes moniker actually means something, as these Sylvaner vines were planted in the early 1960s.
Pinot Gris 2014 (90)
Bright straw-yellow. Soft orchard fruit scents along with lemon peel and honey on the nose. Then compellingly sappy flavors of crystallized citrus and stone fruits that are rich, ripe and sweet (though the official numbers indicate only 6 g/L of residual sugar). Finishes with very good length and a pure, perfumed finish. Off-dry rather than dry, but pretty irresistible, this Pinot Gris is best paired with richer foods like fish or scallops in cream sauce. With wines like this one, even if on the richer end of the scale, it’s easy to understand why Pinot Gris/ Pinot Grigio can be such a crowd-pleaser.
Pinot Noir 2013 (88)
Bright dark red. Perfumed archetypal nose of Pinot Noir showcasing flinty red and dark berry aromas complicated by a delicate herbal nuance. Then fresh and lively, offering slightly subdued dark berry flavors and dusty tannins. Finishes medium-long and smooth, revealing a slightly tough edge. These Pinot Noir vines were planted on mainly granite soils (around Saint-Hyppolite), which accounts at least partly for the wine’s firmness.
Pinot Noir "F" 2013 (89)
Good full red. Penetrating aromas of black cherry, licorice and violet. Juicy and tight but not hard; strong acidity keeps the wine's texture under wraps and lends a slightly austere impression to the red fruit and herbal flavors. The lemony acidity highlights a green edge on the rather clenched finish. Finishes nicely persistent with repeating notes of violet. These vines are planted on the ferruginous marls of the Furstentum grand cru, but as only Blanck and Vincent Fleith produce Pinot Noir in the Furstentum, it is unlikely that this site will ever be recognized as a premier cru for the variety.
Riesling Rosenbourg 2015 (88)
Pale gold-tinged straw. Honeyed propolis and ripe citrus on the nose. Then fresh and juicy on the palate, delivering a straightforward, zingy lemony mouthfeel and vibrant apple and pear flavors. Nicely persistent on the clean, simple finish. Made from grapes grown on gray to black marly soils containing gypsum and lying over granitic
bedrock; the darker marl and the granite contribute toughness and spiciness to the wine.
Riesling Patergarten 2014 (89)
Vivid straw-green. Aromas of yellow melon, jasmine and vanilla. Bright and juicy, with a lemony freshness lifting the orchard fruit flavors; seems rounder than all the other 2014 Rieslings I tasted at Blanck this year, thanks also to a hint of residual sugar. Finishes medium-long, bright and floral. These vines are planted on alluvial gravel soils, and
so, not surprisingly, this wine is also more evolved than the other 2014 Blanck Rieslings, showcasing the classic diesel-fuel aromas that develop more quickly on earlyripening soils such as those of the Patergarten.
Riesling Schlossberg 2014 (88+)
Bright straw-green. Aromas and flavors of fresh orchard fruit and minerals are complicated by hint of licorice. Enters broad and smooth, then slightly diffuse in the middle, finishing with average length and a savory nuance. This is still an infant and needs a good three years to come together. This wine was expected to be on sale at the end of 2016 or the beginning of 2017.
Riesling Furstentum 2014 (90+)
Bright straw-green. Aromas and flavors of fresh orchard fruit and minerals are complicated by hint of licorice. Enters broad and smooth, then slightly diffuse in the middle, finishing with average length and a savory nuance. This is still an infant and needs a good three years to come together. This wine was expected to be on sale at the end of 2016 or the beginning of 2017.
Pinot Gris Patergarten 2013 (90)
Bright medium yellow. Enticing aromas of baked apple, quince and butterscotch. Ripe and slightly sweet, offering honeyed caramel and apple flavors that are juicy and soft, but with enough lively acidity to help extend the flavors on the back end and firm up the finish.
BY IAN D’AGATA
Pinot Blanc (90)
Bright golden-tinged yellow. Sweet spices, butter and ripe pear on the nose. Then creamy in texture, offering gently honeyed and spice nuances to the ripe orchard fruit flavors. Finishes quite rich and long; this is surprisingly lively for a wine with 40 percent Auxerrois, which tends to give honeyed, luscious wines not especially characterized
by lip-smacking acidity (the other 60 percent of the blend is Pinot Blanc).
Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes 2015 (88)
Vivid golden-tinged straw. Slightly high-toned aromas of yellow apple, ripe pear, spring flowers and butter. Juicy and penetrating, but still a gently creamy Auxerrois. Finishes medium-long and clean, but a little simply, delivering good but not outstanding flavor intensity.
Muscat d'Alsace 2015 (90)
Bright golden-tinged straw. Bright lime, grapefruit, rose and sage aromas on the nose. Fresh and lively in the mouth; zingy acidity lifts the juicy grapefruit and peach flavors. Finishes medium-long and with a peppery bite. A blend of 60 percent Muscat d’Alsace and 40 percent Muscat Ottonel.
Pinot Gris 2015 (89)
Bright straw-yellow. Aromas of peach, almond, butter, bergamot and white flowers. Supple and off-dry, displaying a glyceral texture to the peach and apple flavors. Finishes fresh and sappy.
Riesling 2015 (89)
Luminous straw-green. Lemony apple and white flower aromas are complemented by a mineral nuance. Bright and juicy, offering crisp flavors of apple, nectarine and aromatic herbs lifted by lively acidity. Not the most complex wine you’ll ever taste, but balanced and fresh. Finishes long and classically dry.
Gewurztraminer 2015 (88)
Pale bright yellow. Aromas of grapefruit, flowers and spices. Supple and fruity, displaying a pliant, suave texture but modest nuance and complexity. Finishes reasonably dry and clean. This entry-level Gewürz showcases a fresh,lovely varietal nose, but I find it a little on the heavy side lovely varietal nose, but I find it a little on the heavy side because of suspect acidity.
Sylvaner Vieilles Vignes 2014 (91)
Pale straw-green. The initially subdued nose opens slowly with prolonged aeration to offer bergamot, mint, green apple and coriander aromas and flavors. Bright, juicy and precise, displaying sneaky concentration and lively, harmonious acidity. Finishes long and clean. This is a remarkably good Sylvaner, but make sure you let it air out
in a large glass, carafe or jug for 5-10 minutes at least. The vieilles vignes moniker actually means something, as these Sylvaner vines were planted in the early 1960s.
Pinot Gris 2014 (90)
Bright straw-yellow. Soft orchard fruit scents along with lemon peel and honey on the nose. Then compellingly sappy flavors of crystallized citrus and stone fruits that are rich, ripe and sweet (though the official numbers indicate only 6 g/L of residual sugar). Finishes with very good length and a pure, perfumed finish. Off-dry rather than dry, but pretty irresistible, this Pinot Gris is best paired with richer foods like fish or scallops in cream sauce. With wines like this one, even if on the richer end of the scale, it’s easy to understand why Pinot Gris/ Pinot Grigio can be such a crowd-pleaser.
Pinot Noir 2013 (88)
Bright dark red. Perfumed archetypal nose of Pinot Noir showcasing flinty red and dark berry aromas complicated by a delicate herbal nuance. Then fresh and lively, offering slightly subdued dark berry flavors and dusty tannins. Finishes medium-long and smooth, revealing a slightly tough edge. These Pinot Noir vines were planted on mainly granite soils (around Saint-Hyppolite), which accounts at least partly for the wine’s firmness.
Pinot Noir "F" 2013 (89)
Good full red. Penetrating aromas of black cherry, licorice and violet. Juicy and tight but not hard; strong acidity keeps the wine's texture under wraps and lends a slightly austere impression to the red fruit and herbal flavors. The lemony acidity highlights a green edge on the rather clenched finish. Finishes nicely persistent with repeating notes of violet. These vines are planted on the ferruginous marls of the Furstentum grand cru, but as only Blanck and Vincent Fleith produce Pinot Noir in the Furstentum, it is unlikely that this site will ever be recognized as a premier cru for the variety.
Riesling Rosenbourg 2015 (88)
Pale gold-tinged straw. Honeyed propolis and ripe citrus on the nose. Then fresh and juicy on the palate, delivering a straightforward, zingy lemony mouthfeel and vibrant apple and pear flavors. Nicely persistent on the clean, simple finish. Made from grapes grown on gray to black marly soils containing gypsum and lying over granitic
bedrock; the darker marl and the granite contribute toughness and spiciness to the wine.
Riesling Patergarten 2014 (89)
Vivid straw-green. Aromas of yellow melon, jasmine and vanilla. Bright and juicy, with a lemony freshness lifting the orchard fruit flavors; seems rounder than all the other 2014 Rieslings I tasted at Blanck this year, thanks also to a hint of residual sugar. Finishes medium-long, bright and floral. These vines are planted on alluvial gravel soils, and
so, not surprisingly, this wine is also more evolved than the other 2014 Blanck Rieslings, showcasing the classic diesel-fuel aromas that develop more quickly on earlyripening soils such as those of the Patergarten.
Riesling Schlossberg 2014 (88+)
Bright straw-green. Aromas and flavors of fresh orchard fruit and minerals are complicated by hint of licorice. Enters broad and smooth, then slightly diffuse in the middle, finishing with average length and a savory nuance. This is still an infant and needs a good three years to come together. This wine was expected to be on sale at the end of 2016 or the beginning of 2017.
Riesling Furstentum 2014 (90+)
Bright straw-green. Aromas and flavors of fresh orchard fruit and minerals are complicated by hint of licorice. Enters broad and smooth, then slightly diffuse in the middle, finishing with average length and a savory nuance. This is still an infant and needs a good three years to come together. This wine was expected to be on sale at the end of 2016 or the beginning of 2017.
Pinot Gris Patergarten 2013 (90)
Bright medium yellow. Enticing aromas of baked apple, quince and butterscotch. Ripe and slightly sweet, offering honeyed caramel and apple flavors that are juicy and soft, but with enough lively acidity to help extend the flavors on the back end and firm up the finish.
08/06/2017
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